Shirt Collar Types Plus Who should and How to Wear Them!
Posted on May 04 2021
When it comes to selecting the right shirt there are several things to consider. Aside from the obvious fabric and colour/pattern choice, there are an array of options available that can make a shirt really unique to you and your preferences. From body fit (slim/regular/tailored) to cuff and button style the options can seem endless. Here to help - we focus on the various types of collar options available from us and some hot tips to help you choose which might be right for you!
Cutaway – the Cutaway is a type of spread collar of which its points form an obtuse angle, creating a horizontal line where the collar finishes. A smart look that suits a large tie knot or no tie, a slim tie would look out of place between the spread.
Suitable for – widening a slim/short neck.
Extreme cutaway – An Extreme Cutaway is just that, similar to the cutaway but with the collar points almost angling back towards the shoulders. It is a strong and fashionable look that creates an old fashioned elegance – however it is not suited to those with a rounder face, as it will most definitely accentuate the width.
Suitable for – Fashion brave, slender men with slim faces.
Classic – While the classic collar has shortened over the decades it still displays the same silhoutte. In the 1970’s this collar type became very fashionable, made popular by the ‘new romantic’ look. there has been a ressurgance of the more 70’s look this season, and is distinguishable by the collar points not being covered by jacket lapels.
Suitable for – wider faced men (apple/rounded shapes)
Button down – Otherwise known as the OCBD (oxford collar button down) but available now in other fabrics and styles that an Oxford shirt. This shirt was first utilised for the distinguished Polo playing English gentlemen, in order to stop the flapping shirt collar from being a distraction on the field. It was however made famous worldwide by the Brooks Brothers of New York and their iteration of the ‘preppy’ look.
Suitable for – wearing with blazers and more casual attire. Seen as too informal for a suit.
Button under – The button down’s covert cousin! This collar has hidden button loops that secure the collar down without being visible. Suitable for those who want the practicality of having the collar help in place but without the aesthetic of the OCBD.
Suitable for – those seeking practicality without the button-down look.
Spread – More popular in the UK and Europe, this fairly modern collar type is a classic made famous by the likes of the Duke of Windsor and suits thicker ties with larger knots - most notably the Windsor knot. Works well under a formal suit and creates the perfect space for a bowtie.
Suitable for – thin faced men wanting to create an illusion of a wider neck.
Straight – Described by many as the most balanced collar type, its small spread means its suitable for wearing formally under a suit or dressed down with chino’s under a blazer. Its versatility means it can also suit a range of face shapes. Looking best with slimmer ties, it is a neutral and versatile option perfect for everyday office attire.
Suitable for – everyday wear, a range of face shapes and shirt styles.
Tab – This is one of the rarer less utilised collar options, made for when you really want the tie knot to stand out by pulling the collar flat around the neck. Only suitable for wearing with a tie.
Suitable for – men who have an unusually long neck.
Wing – A very formal shirt that is worn only as part of a dress suit and therefore not a necessary staple in the average gentlemen’s wardrobe.
Suitable for – Black tie events, Barristers, dinner suits.
Tunic – Said to be the oldest type of shirt style that has been recovered historically, this collar type is derived from traditional clothing worn around the globe over centuries. Suited to the modern man who isnt afraid to explore different styles, it is most definitely a more relaxed looking style and suits lighter fabrics such a linen.
Suitable for – casual wear, holidays, summertime.
Classic rounded – An iteration of the classic collar but with rounded points giving a softer appearance and lending itself well to the more slender faced man.
Suitable for – More slender faced men who enjoy the classic collar but want to balance their face shape more.
Cutaway rounded – Again much the same virtue as the cutaway but with a softer finish.
Suitable for – Elongating a wider face shape.
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