The W.H. Taylor Shirtmakers guide to a Perfect Shirt
W.H Taylor Shirtmakers
Details of the Perfect Shirt
A unique and very special feature of W.H Taylor’ shirts is that the fabric designs are matched exactly at all points where the different parts of the shirt meet. To give examples, look at the points over and under the collar, over and under the cuffs, the sleeve head (shown above), the front placket and the sleeve gauntlets. The shirt placket blends into the body of the shirt to give the impression of one piece of fabric making the front of the shirt.
18 Stitches to the Inch Sewing
All W.H Taylor shirts are sewn with 18 stitches to the inch throughout the whole shirt. By comparison the average is 15.
This results in fine, strong and more elegant seams.
W.H Taylor only use real pearl button on our shirts. No other buttons can reproduce their translucent elegance. ‘Mother of Pearl’ plastic replica buttons are often used by our competitors as a cheaper alternative to the real thing. The best way to test which buttons are used is to tap the buttons against your teeth. Real MOP will produce a sharp "click", while plastic will produce a duller sound, more like a "clack."
Buttons sewn with Crossed Lockstitch
Buttons are sewn on with a strong secure crossed lock stitch, to prevent them becoming loose.
Single Needle Stitching
W.H Taylor’ shirts are sewn throughout using a single needle sewing machine similar to that which you would use at home. This is the traditional, but costly, way of doing things. It produces very fine but very strong seams. Quite simply W.H Taylor’ ‘ready made’ shirts are made in the same way as the highest quality ‘bespoke’ shirts. Many of our competitors only use single needle stitching on the sleeves and front of the shirt, and twin needle stitching on the body.
Finest Two Fold Cotton Poplin
The majority of W.H Taylor’ shirts are made from two fold 100% cotton poplin. The weave gives a durable yet smooth finish with a medium fabric weight. Poplin is excellent fabric for sharp checks, stripes and end on ends.
Multiple Sleeve Lengths
Depending on the collar size of the shirt, various sleeve lengths are available. These range from 32" (81 cm) (very short) to 37" (94 cm) (very long). Please refer to our sizing guide for collar size/sleeve length options. Sleeves can be shortened to a specific length in the event that your sleeve length is longer that those we produce in your collar size.
Two Piece Split Yoke
The Yoke across the shoulders of W.H Taylor’ shirts is constructed in two distinct halves allowing them to come together at an angle replicating the sloping nature of men’s shoulders. This creates a perfectly smooth line across the shoulders, which is not possible with a single piece of fabric.
Two Piece Collar
W.H Taylor’ shirt collars are made with a separate Top and Band. They are cut with the joining edge between the band and the top elliptical, thus when sewn together this produces a "spring" which gives the collar a natural tendency both to turn and stay down. This cannot be achieved with a one-piece collar.
W.H Taylor’ shirt cuffs are rounded to prevent them from getting caught on the edge of the jacket as it moves over the cuffs of the shirt. Despite the fact that this is more difficult to sew than a square cuff, it is an important quality feature.
W.H Taylor shirts feature an over and under gauntlet. This consists of two pieces of fabric either side of the sleeve opening above the cuff. These keep the sleeve together in wear and prevent “gaping.” This does away with the need to have a “button in gauntlet”, a cheaper option often used to keep the sleeve closed when gauntlets have been dispensed with.
Horizontal Bottom Button
Allows movement across your hips. The tail of all W.H Taylor’ shirts is generously long to ensure that your shirt will not come untucked during wear.
All of W.H Taylor men’s shirts are made with a small “butterfly” gusset in the side tail. This is a small but very strong gusset as opposed to the simple piece of fabric used in some cases. In addition to adding strength it also contours the back tail of the shirt.
Removable Collar Stiffeners
Collar stiffeners are included to keep your collar flat and smooth. These should be removed when washing and ironing a W.H Taylor’ shirt, then replaced to keep the shirt’s collar in prime condition. Spare pairs of collar stiffeners will be supplied upon request.
While pearl buttons can be purchased at all good haberdasheries, extra pearl buttons are provided for in the tail of all W.H Taylor’ shirts. W.H Taylor use a ’14 Line’ button for the collar and ’16 Line’ button for the rest. Both are supplied.