The W.H. Taylor Shirtmakers guide to a Perfect Shirt

W.H Taylor Shirtmakers

Details of the Perfect Shirt

Designs Matched

A unique feature of W.H. Taylor’s shirts is that the fabric designs are matched precisely at all points where the different parts of the shirt meet. To give examples, look at the facts over and under the collar, over and under the cuffs, the sleeve head (shown above), the front placket and the sleeve gauntlets. The shirt placket blends into the shirt's body to give the impression of one piece of fabric making the front of the shirt.

18 Stitches to the Inch Sewing

All W.H. Taylor shirts are sewn with 18 stitches to the inch throughout the whole shirt. By comparison, the average is 15.

This results in delicate, solid and more elegant seams.

Buttons sewn with Crossed Lockstitch 

Buttons are sewn on with a strong, secure crossed lock stitch to prevent them from becoming loose.

Single Needle Stitching

W.H. Taylor’s shirts are sewn using a single-needle sewing machine similar to that at home. This is the traditional but costly way of doing things. It produces excellent but robust seams. Quite simply, W.H Taylor’ ‘ready made’ shirts are made in the same way as the highest quality ‘bespoke’ shirts. Many of our competitors only use single-needle stitching on the sleeves and front of the shirt and twin-needle stitching on the body.

Finest Two Fold Cotton Poplin 

Most W.H. Taylor’s shirts are made from two-fold 100% cotton poplin. The weave gives a durable yet smooth finish with a medium fabric weight. Poplin is an excellent fabric for sharp checks, stripes and end on-ends.

Multiple Sleeve Lengths

Depending on the collar size of the shirt, various sleeve lengths are available. These range from 32" (81 cm) (very short) to 37" (94 cm) (very long). Please refer to our sizing guide for collar size/sleeve length options. Sleeves can be shortened to a specific length if your sleeve length is longer than those we produce in your collar size.

Two Piece Split Yoke 

The Yoke across the shoulders of W.H Taylor’s shirts is constructed in two distinct halves, allowing them to come together at an angle, replicating the sloping nature of men’s shoulders. This creates a perfectly smooth line across the shoulders, which is not possible with a single piece of fabric.

Two Piece Collar 

W.H. Taylor’s shirt collars are made with a separate Top and Band. They are cut with the joining edge between the band and the top elliptical. Thus, sewn together produces a "spring", which gives the collar a natural tendency to turn and stay down. This cannot be achieved with a one-piece collar.

Rounded Cuffs

W.H. Taylor’s shirt cuffs are rounded to prevent them from getting caught on the edge of the jacket as it moves over the shirt's cuffs. Even though this is more difficult to sew than a square cuff, it is an important quality feature.


W.H. Taylor shirts feature an over-and-under gauntlet. This consists of two pieces of fabric on either side of the sleeve opening above the cuff. These keep the sleeve together in wear and prevent “gaping.” This does away with the need for a “button in gauntlet”, a cheaper option often used to keep the sleeve closed when gauntlets have been dispensed with. 

Horizontal Bottom Button

Allows movement across your hips. The tail of all W.H. Taylor’s shirts is generously long to ensure that your shirt will not come untucked during wear.

Butterfly Gusset

All W.H. Taylor men’s shirts are made with a small “butterfly” gusset in the side tail. This is a small but very strong gusset as opposed to the simple fabric used in some cases. In addition to adding strength, it also contours the back tail of the shirt.

Removable Collar Stiffeners

Collar stiffeners are included to keep your collar flat and smooth. When washing and ironing a W.H. Taylor shirt, these should be removed and replaced to keep the shirt’s collar in prime condition. Spare pairs of collar stiffeners will be supplied upon request.

Spare Buttons

While pearl buttons can be purchased at all good haberdasheries, extra pearl buttons are provided for in the tail of all W.H. Taylor’s shirts. W.H. Taylor uses a ’14 Line’ button for the collar and a ’16 Line’ button for the rest. Both are supplied.